Bali Clothes

COMMUNITY Bali can be divided into two groups, Bali-Hindu and Bali-Aga. Bali-Hindu community are descendants of the Majapahit citizen who moved to the island around the thirteenth century. Bali Villa Accommodation knew Previous relationship between Bali and Majapahit in East Java has been established.

Since around the tenth century dharma king Udayana of Bali took the consort of East Java, named Mahendradatta (also the title of Sri Gunapryadharmapatni) which is a descendant of the king MPU Spoon. Marriage gave birth to Erland later crowned king in East Java, replacing the king who ruled in Sri Dharmawangsa 991-1007. When the Majapahit empire in decline and collapse, the faithful carry the remains of the Hindu Majapahit kingdom and fled to the east up to the island of Bali Holiday Villas Seminyak.

Bali-Hindu society which is part of most of the inhabitants of the island of Bali, generally inhabit the plains, to the west of the island of Lombok. They know the system of social stratification based on descent and groups that are patrilineal kin. Some clans have a history of descent or chronicle, Pamancangah each clan can be traced back to the Majapahit kingdom. There is a pride when their fathers turned out to have a blood relationship with kings or nobles of the kingdom of Majapahit era.

Based on the historical process of the clans of Bali plains composed into high and low coating influenced the caste system of Hindu religious scriptures Ancient, namely Brahmins, Kshatriyas, Vaisya, and Sudra. A social system in Bali have the same designation that
Brahmin, Kshatriya, Vaishya and Sudra. The first coating called triwangsa third, while the fourth coating called Jaba. Only a small portion of the people of Bali including triwangsa. However residents of large clans that included triwangsa spread throughout Bali Villa Accommodation. Instead the majority of the people of Bali including Jaba so their dynasty is at the majority of the population of Bali. Each layer holds a caste different. For example titles to the Brahmin caste is Ida Bagus for men and Ida Ayu for women, title to caste Knight is Cokorda, and for the people of Vaishya clan is Gusti.

Bali mating system is strongly influenced by the caste system. There is even a customary rule prohibiting marriage with a different caste. The system of social stratification is also influential in the customs, attitudes association, and speech language. Despite this difference does not affect the coating system of dress or jewelry.
Rali community-Aga less completely under the influence of the Majapahit Hindu-Javanese. Therefore the Bali Aga people have a different culture with Balinese Hindus in the plains. People who belong to the Bali-Aga inhabit this mountain villages around Sembiran, Cempaga, Sidatapa, Pedawa, Tigawangsa, Buleleng; and Pagringsingan Tenganan village in Karangasem.

Wastra Qringsing and auspicious Endek
No motives on clothes devoted to the nobility or king in Bali Holiday Villas Seminyak. This is in contrast with batik motifs in Java and is divided into certain strata. For example parang motif, kawung, and sebagainva specifically for the king or nobleman palace in Yogyakarta and Surakarta. Those who come from the common people is forbidden to wear it. Bali fabrics kinds of woven such as songket gold and silver threads and fabrics prada, the fabric was given decorative paint scratches gold, is the art of weaving that flourished in the palace and its surroundings, for example royal Gianyar, Buleleng, Badung and Karangasem. Approximately 16-19 century kings of Bali is very influential on the development of various types of art. At that time the performing arts and crafts / crafts including weaving art, is growing rapidly and is spread from the center of the kingdom to the villages. It can be said the development and distribution of Balinese art reached its peak at that time. No wonder if the current types of woven and manufacture of Prada is well known by the public until there is no restriction based on certain strata.

Fabrics, called wastra in Balinese, very important role in traditional ceremonies. From birth to death, from early morning when the sunrise to sunset, the Balinese live their lives with various ceremonies. Each ceremony is always equipped with good art performing arts, the art of gamelan music and dance accompanied by sparkling clothes. Ceremonies conducted civic nature, meaning that engages people. In traditional ceremonies, individuals and communities involved must wear fabrics or certain clothes. There are different types of fabrics used, among other things songket, ikat, alloy songket and ikat, double ikat or double ikat (fabric gringsing), weaving plain, to the striped fabric, the types of fabric to function according to their shape and size for example as a scarf , saput, Kamben, shawl, until headband / udheng (headband).

In Bali, the fabric is not only used to cover the body both for daily and during the ceremony. Fabrics are also used to decorate the temple ceremony places, houses, and in the center of the village. In fact, they believe there are certain fabrics that can serve as a repellent reinforcements. If someone is ill and his illness ascribed disorder evil spirits, then it can be cured by wearing certain fabrics.
Function fabrics Bali been reviewed by Anak Agung Muter and Ratmini Soedjatmoko in the book Anthology Wastra Bali Holiday Villas. Bali fabrics they split into three groups, namely wastra Sorcerer, wastra Greatness, and wastra Decorator.
Wastra Sorcerer is a fabric that is considered sacred and is closely linked with religious ceremonies. Serves as a protector, repellent reinforcements, cure diseases, and so forth. Fabrics that include, among other sacred gringsing, splash, and bebali. The types of magical cloth is made from cotton yarn decorated with ornaments and colors that have a particular meaning.

Wastra Qringsing
Wastra gringsing made of cotton yarn with decorative motifs formed of a double bind or double ikat, which is binding warp and weft threads at once. In addition in this area, usually ikat made by binding warp or weft threads alone. Double woven type is very rare, only in Japan, India, and Indonesia. Its manufacture requires a long time, ranging from one to five years, and be done with special techniques very difficult. Results so double ikat will form a geometric pattern matching neat and very beautiful.

Cloth / wastra gringsing is woven by villagers Tenganan Pagringsingan in Karangasem. But the process of dyeing indigo and brown colors are considered to be taboo if done in the village. Therefore, the color of indigo dyeing process carried out in the village of Bug-bug and red-brown in Nusa Penida. Immersion in the village of Bug-bug conducted with indigo leaves to produce color in Nusa Government of dyeing is done with the roots of noni / pace to produce a red-brown color.

Dyeing process begins with the binding of certain parts weft and warp corresponding desired motif. The goal is that part which is not affected by the current color tied dyed. Threads that have bound resebut then sent to the village of Bug-bug for dyed with indigo color. From here. threads opened bond and tied at the indigo. The yarns are then dyed with red-brown in Nusa Penida. Dyeing process with the roots of noni done many times to obtain a dark maroon color and graceful. There was also the result of yellow dye hazelnut and egg yolks pale as the base fabric with decorative be rash a brown and maroon.

The process of weaving is done after completion colored threads and ready to be woven. The yarns are woven with a tool called cagcag, namely traditional looms that use por-a kind of arc that hooked around the waist weaver as anchoring warp yarn stretch. This tool will produce a tubular fabric. After the cut follows the contours of the feed, the fabric will be a rectangle measuring 30-100 cm wide, 125-200 cm long. The edges can be left tenirai, but sometimes there are neatly trimmed. Other names gringsing fabric is a fabric gringsing cemplong, cempaka, and sananempeg.

The series of ceremonial dances, rituals, cutting teeth, and Ngaben
Motifs are frequently used in fabric gringsing very distinctive, among other Bah puppet motif taken from the story Mahabaratha. The same figures can be found on the reliefs of temples in East Java. Fabrics with puppet motif is often used in the dance-dance Rejang Abuang and typical Tenganan Pagringsingan-in ceremonies of sacred rituals in the village, both by men and women. Some ceremonies require the use of new fabrics that have not been used, so used wastra gringsing uncut and still tubular.

Outside the village of Tenganan. gringsing cloth worn under his head in gear cutting ceremony is a ceremony Metatah or mepandes. Gringsing fabric is also used in ceremonies menek daha (ceremonies marking puberty) and pemapah bride in a wedding ceremony. By shamans or healers, gringsing cloth is used to treat a sick person by way of covering the body or parts of the sick people with certain diseases. In addition to the important role in the ceremony, gringsing fabric is also used to decorate temples, shrines and towers in the cremation ceremony.

Wastra tube
Fabric tube is given the type of fabric decoration of certain feed belt technique called endek. The distinctive decorative red motifs, colorful, inspired by the motifs on fabrics patola cindai India. Fabric tube is considered sacred, and used to cover the coffin and also a special clothing worn by dancers Rangda in dramatari Calon Arang. In general, the fabric tube is made of woven silk on lungsinya yarn (yarn vertical). Usually wastra tube length of 1.20 and 240 cm and width 70 and 80 cm.
Wastra tube is derived from Nusa Penida, but in its development is also made in several other areas in Bali, however, there is specificity woven derived from Nusa Penida because it is made from woven cotton yarns are smooth and graceful.