Bali Clothes

COMMUNITY Bali can be divided into two groups, Bali-Hindu and Bali-Aga. Bali-Hindu community are descendants of the Majapahit citizen who moved to the island around the thirteenth century. Bali Villa Accommodation knew Previous relationship between Bali and Majapahit in East Java has been established.

Since around the tenth century dharma king Udayana of Bali took the consort of East Java, named Mahendradatta (also the title of Sri Gunapryadharmapatni) which is a descendant of the king MPU Spoon. Marriage gave birth to Erland later crowned king in East Java, replacing the king who ruled in Sri Dharmawangsa 991-1007. When the Majapahit empire in decline and collapse, the faithful carry the remains of the Hindu Majapahit kingdom and fled to the east up to the island of Bali Holiday Villas Seminyak.

Bali-Hindu society which is part of most of the inhabitants of the island of Bali, generally inhabit the plains, to the west of the island of Lombok. They know the system of social stratification based on descent and groups that are patrilineal kin. Some clans have a history of descent or chronicle, Pamancangah each clan can be traced back to the Majapahit kingdom. There is a pride when their fathers turned out to have a blood relationship with kings or nobles of the kingdom of Majapahit era.

Based on the historical process of the clans of Bali plains composed into high and low coating influenced the caste system of Hindu religious scriptures Ancient, namely Brahmins, Kshatriyas, Vaisya, and Sudra. A social system in Bali have the same designation that
Brahmin, Kshatriya, Vaishya and Sudra. The first coating called triwangsa third, while the fourth coating called Jaba. Only a small portion of the people of Bali including triwangsa. However residents of large clans that included triwangsa spread throughout Bali Villa Accommodation. Instead the majority of the people of Bali including Jaba so their dynasty is at the majority of the population of Bali. Each layer holds a caste different. For example titles to the Brahmin caste is Ida Bagus for men and Ida Ayu for women, title to caste Knight is Cokorda, and for the people of Vaishya clan is Gusti.

Bali mating system is strongly influenced by the caste system. There is even a customary rule prohibiting marriage with a different caste. The system of social stratification is also influential in the customs, attitudes association, and speech language. Despite this difference does not affect the coating system of dress or jewelry.
Rali community-Aga less completely under the influence of the Majapahit Hindu-Javanese. Therefore the Bali Aga people have a different culture with Balinese Hindus in the plains. People who belong to the Bali-Aga inhabit this mountain villages around Sembiran, Cempaga, Sidatapa, Pedawa, Tigawangsa, Buleleng; and Pagringsingan Tenganan village in Karangasem.

Wastra Qringsing and auspicious Endek
No motives on clothes devoted to the nobility or king in Bali Holiday Villas Seminyak. This is in contrast with batik motifs in Java and is divided into certain strata. For example parang motif, kawung, and sebagainva specifically for the king or nobleman palace in Yogyakarta and Surakarta. Those who come from the common people is forbidden to wear it. Bali fabrics kinds of woven such as songket gold and silver threads and fabrics prada, the fabric was given decorative paint scratches gold, is the art of weaving that flourished in the palace and its surroundings, for example royal Gianyar, Buleleng, Badung and Karangasem. Approximately 16-19 century kings of Bali is very influential on the development of various types of art. At that time the performing arts and crafts / crafts including weaving art, is growing rapidly and is spread from the center of the kingdom to the villages. It can be said the development and distribution of Balinese art reached its peak at that time. No wonder if the current types of woven and manufacture of Prada is well known by the public until there is no restriction based on certain strata.

Fabrics, called wastra in Balinese, very important role in traditional ceremonies. From birth to death, from early morning when the sunrise to sunset, the Balinese live their lives with various ceremonies. Each ceremony is always equipped with good art performing arts, the art of gamelan music and dance accompanied by sparkling clothes. Ceremonies conducted civic nature, meaning that engages people. In traditional ceremonies, individuals and communities involved must wear fabrics or certain clothes. There are different types of fabrics used, among other things songket, ikat, alloy songket and ikat, double ikat or double ikat (fabric gringsing), weaving plain, to the striped fabric, the types of fabric to function according to their shape and size for example as a scarf , saput, Kamben, shawl, until headband / udheng (headband).

In Bali, the fabric is not only used to cover the body both for daily and during the ceremony. Fabrics are also used to decorate the temple ceremony places, houses, and in the center of the village. In fact, they believe there are certain fabrics that can serve as a repellent reinforcements. If someone is ill and his illness ascribed disorder evil spirits, then it can be cured by wearing certain fabrics.
Function fabrics Bali been reviewed by Anak Agung Muter and Ratmini Soedjatmoko in the book Anthology Wastra Bali Holiday Villas. Bali fabrics they split into three groups, namely wastra Sorcerer, wastra Greatness, and wastra Decorator.
Wastra Sorcerer is a fabric that is considered sacred and is closely linked with religious ceremonies. Serves as a protector, repellent reinforcements, cure diseases, and so forth. Fabrics that include, among other sacred gringsing, splash, and bebali. The types of magical cloth is made from cotton yarn decorated with ornaments and colors that have a particular meaning.

Wastra Qringsing
Wastra gringsing made of cotton yarn with decorative motifs formed of a double bind or double ikat, which is binding warp and weft threads at once. In addition in this area, usually ikat made by binding warp or weft threads alone. Double woven type is very rare, only in Japan, India, and Indonesia. Its manufacture requires a long time, ranging from one to five years, and be done with special techniques very difficult. Results so double ikat will form a geometric pattern matching neat and very beautiful.

Cloth / wastra gringsing is woven by villagers Tenganan Pagringsingan in Karangasem. But the process of dyeing indigo and brown colors are considered to be taboo if done in the village. Therefore, the color of indigo dyeing process carried out in the village of Bug-bug and red-brown in Nusa Penida. Immersion in the village of Bug-bug conducted with indigo leaves to produce color in Nusa Government of dyeing is done with the roots of noni / pace to produce a red-brown color.

Dyeing process begins with the binding of certain parts weft and warp corresponding desired motif. The goal is that part which is not affected by the current color tied dyed. Threads that have bound resebut then sent to the village of Bug-bug for dyed with indigo color. From here. threads opened bond and tied at the indigo. The yarns are then dyed with red-brown in Nusa Penida. Dyeing process with the roots of noni done many times to obtain a dark maroon color and graceful. There was also the result of yellow dye hazelnut and egg yolks pale as the base fabric with decorative be rash a brown and maroon.

The process of weaving is done after completion colored threads and ready to be woven. The yarns are woven with a tool called cagcag, namely traditional looms that use por-a kind of arc that hooked around the waist weaver as anchoring warp yarn stretch. This tool will produce a tubular fabric. After the cut follows the contours of the feed, the fabric will be a rectangle measuring 30-100 cm wide, 125-200 cm long. The edges can be left tenirai, but sometimes there are neatly trimmed. Other names gringsing fabric is a fabric gringsing cemplong, cempaka, and sananempeg.

The series of ceremonial dances, rituals, cutting teeth, and Ngaben
Motifs are frequently used in fabric gringsing very distinctive, among other Bah puppet motif taken from the story Mahabaratha. The same figures can be found on the reliefs of temples in East Java. Fabrics with puppet motif is often used in the dance-dance Rejang Abuang and typical Tenganan Pagringsingan-in ceremonies of sacred rituals in the village, both by men and women. Some ceremonies require the use of new fabrics that have not been used, so used wastra gringsing uncut and still tubular.

Outside the village of Tenganan. gringsing cloth worn under his head in gear cutting ceremony is a ceremony Metatah or mepandes. Gringsing fabric is also used in ceremonies menek daha (ceremonies marking puberty) and pemapah bride in a wedding ceremony. By shamans or healers, gringsing cloth is used to treat a sick person by way of covering the body or parts of the sick people with certain diseases. In addition to the important role in the ceremony, gringsing fabric is also used to decorate temples, shrines and towers in the cremation ceremony.

Wastra tube
Fabric tube is given the type of fabric decoration of certain feed belt technique called endek. The distinctive decorative red motifs, colorful, inspired by the motifs on fabrics patola cindai India. Fabric tube is considered sacred, and used to cover the coffin and also a special clothing worn by dancers Rangda in dramatari Calon Arang. In general, the fabric tube is made of woven silk on lungsinya yarn (yarn vertical). Usually wastra tube length of 1.20 and 240 cm and width 70 and 80 cm.
Wastra tube is derived from Nusa Penida, but in its development is also made in several other areas in Bali, however, there is specificity woven derived from Nusa Penida because it is made from woven cotton yarns are smooth and graceful.

The Funny of JOGER

In the past (before 1981) words or a combination of five letters J + O + G + E + R have not been there, or at least we have never seen or heard used anywhere in Bali Villa Accommodation , anytime and by anyone, but by the end of 1980, when we are planning to choose a name for our small shop which time it will be open in jl.Sulawesi 37, Denpasar (right in front of Pasar Badung - the largest traditional market in Bali), by the trade office, we requested and even required to choose a name for our store, so that our stores can be distinguished with shops others who of course are also or even have a name, such as Toko Sinar Mas, the Free Store, Toko Jaya Abadi, Toko Cheap, Simple and so other shops, but we or I (Joseph Theodorus Wulianadi) who was born on 9 months 9 1951 (on a bed) in the city of Denpasar near Bali Holiday Villas (capital of Bali), which apparently was already accustomed to being "other than the other" (like eccentric) that time as usual or naturally, a subjective, autonomous (independent) and reasonable refused to name our shop with a common name or let alone the smell "public domain". 

And as well as I do, when I rose (for several days) to play the brain (thinking / arguing with myself), contemplate and meditate to fiddling with a few letters or words to be processed into a minimal name should really uniek , And it's not just a coincidence that we / Bali Villa Accommodation chose five letters reads JOGER to call our store we will open when it is being taken care of its trading license. Because the combined five-letter reads JOGER it deliberately we made not only because it is truly like no other, but also because of the name / term / sound JOGER it is also a goodwill / intentions / desires / goals / intentions are pure popping in and out from the deepest bottom of our hearts to remember and / or appreciate the kindness Mr.Gerhard Seeger former school friend of my first (in Hotelfachshule, Bad Wiesee, West Germany, 1970) who have donated fresh funds amounting to US $ 20,000 as our wedding gift (my wife and my beloved Ery Kusdarijati) where the name JOGER (letter E was read as "E" in call "GOOD" or "ECONOMY") it is a merger between two letters of the first name I Joseph Theodorus Wulianadi with a three-letter first name Our friend Mr. Gerhard Seeger, where in addition to really reads the new (pure hasiinovasi us / not other people's work / not public domain), different and uniek, it turns out the name of JOGER it was also easy to remember, good to hear, smell manly and we also certainly true -Right like the name and the sound JOGER as Bali Holiday Villas Seminyak know. 

Then starting on January 19, 1981 (the day of birth JOGER), name JOGER it was practical, de facto and completely open (in the forum Publicum) we used to call our store first, because at that time in addition to including it in the license trade Our name has also been directly JOGER we put on shop signs kami.yang this time (ma'af!) is still necessary and still be sounded and smelled westernized, namely "ART & BATIK SHOP JOGER" which we display at the upper front us. And store since it was also actually the name of pure JOGER is modified or created by me / us the start we made, keep, maintain and  moral values, social values, economic and spiritual in our gait as "entrepreneurs the artist "or" artist entrepreneurs "precisely by always being BAJU2RA6BER alias to be kind, honest, friendly, diligent, responsible, courageous, initiative, grateful and so we can be really beneficial not only for ourselves or our store narrowly only, but also beneficial for stakeholders (others) as well as for the environment supposedly equally we love and crave a natural preservation (fair and civilized) and continuous Bali Holiday Villas.

 Thus, before 19 Januari1981sama once there has never been another party who see, hear, wear, interested, concerned, establish, maintain and develop the name JOGER to be and can be a big name and fragrant that even often considered synonymous with T Shirt- T Shirt or T-shirts (T-shirts) and souvenir design with the words uniek / typical Mr. Joger that even though actually had the ability, opportunity and market demand is very big to open branches or expand anywhere, but because they feel and realize that we are not a tree should grow branches, nor a bird that must expand to and there, then since the date of July 7, 1987 (777), in addition to deciding to have only one store located in Jl. Raya Kuta (since the first was without number), Kuta, Bali alone, we also strictly limits the purchase of T-shirts (T-Shirts) JOGER, and also expressly prohibits the sale of all products trademarked, branded JOGER and signed JOGER for perjual traded as a commodity in the ordinary on the outside only our stores that since 1990 we have mentioned as a factory-word JOGER Rich (Jl Raya Kuta, Kuta, Bali). Thank you for your attention and your sympathy on JOGER small and ugly, but healthy and not this evil.